These historic specialities have much in common with the “gastronomic tests” described by Brillat-Savarin, as follows: “What I mean by “gastronomic tests” are foodstuffs with a recognised flavour and of such an undisputed level of excellence that their mere appearance should be enough to move all the sensory faculties of a well-balanced individual: in such cases, all those who do not feel desire alighting, or the radiance of ecstasy, may be rightfully marked out as unworthy of the honours of the table and the pleasures connected to it” .
This attention to the importance of flavour and the quest for rediscovering pleasures of the palate lays the foundations for protecting traditional produce, withstanding the standardisation of food which leads to large-scale mono-cropping, and defending biodiversity at risk of extinction. In other words truly great gastronomy must not be an abstract, self-serving icon, but spring from a consummate fusion of the environment, food and culture. “Regional and local cuisines”, as Giovanni Goria, leading expert on Piedmontese cuisine, wrote in 1988, “Are the best, truest, richest, most culturally significant heritage of a community, as are its spoken language, dialect, traditional stories and legends, poetry and proverbs. This type of cooking is rooted in the mists of time, in family and oral traditions, and is based on, and develops and diversifies, not only according to the available agricultural produce and naturally-occurring species, game and livestock, vegetables, cooking methods and utensils, herbs and seasonings, and contacts with neighbouring and more distant communities, but above all the tastes, inclinations, preferences and character of the community.
And this local wealth of ways of eating – not some chance invention, but determined by history, shaped by the traditions and culture of the fathers of the community, and even more so of its mothers, is the only kind that is worth saving and continuing: of course it can be modified, adapted to the demands of the time, modernised by the ingenious creativity of great chefs, but it remains true to itself, ever authentic and recognisable”. And without a doubt the great dishes of the cuisine of the Asti and Monferrato area fulfil the fundamental principles so well-expressed by philosopher and gourmet Tullio Gregory: “For a cuisine that aims to represent a tranquil celebration of the fruits of the table and the labours of man: the respect of nature’s produce, tradition and history (therefore also the great sauces and lengthy, knowing cooking methods), the full range of utensils and the abundance of foodstuffs, the presentation and succession of courses, the central role of the diner: all should be oriented to ensure the full satisfaction of those seated at the table, which means more than just making a good impression, but firing up a vital passion, that of the gastronomic eros”. Without a doubt these great dishes include both capunet – a mixture of meat and cooked salami, egg and parmesan used to stuff blanched cabbage leaves, and fricandò – sausage, beef and chicken with a variety of herbs and vegetables: two examples of splendid local specialities which are rarely served these days.