A little known wine, viewed as one of the “minor” DOC wines of Piedmont, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato is made from grapes of the same name.
The origins of this varietal are as uncertain as those of its name. There is no doubt that in Castagnole Monferrato this red grape variety with its elongated bunches has been present for a long time. It was used both as a table grape and in blends with other varieties for making wine, before it began to be used alone for wine-making, and gradually the characteristics of Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato began to take shape.
It was only awarded DOC status in 1987, and the regulations dictate that it must be produced in the villages of Castagnole Monferrato, Grana, Montemagno, Portacomaro, Refrancore, Scurzolengo and Viarigi, in the province of Asti. According to the regulations it must be made from at least 90% Ruchè grapes, while the remaining 10% may be made up of Barbera and Brachetto, singly or combined. It must be at least 12% by vol. and ageing is not obligatory.
In the glass its ruby red colour with purple tones immediately stands out, while its bouquet is heady and pleasingly aromatic, with an almost “oriental” note which recalls incense. It is dry or delicately sweetish, with medium body and balanced tannins.
On the vine, the Ruchè grape has black berries, medium vigour and a good, but not always consistent yield. It has a medium-small sized leaf which is three lobed or occasionally five-lobed, light green in colour and smooth. The bunch is cylindrical or pyramid shaped, elongated and compact, with medium sized, almost round berries, purplish in colour with robust skin and abundant bloom. It ripens at the end of September or at the latest, the beginning of October.
In view of the fact that there are no written records and only vague oral accounts of the origins of this grape variety, this wine has an air of mystery which adds to its charm. There are two theories about the origin of the name: according to one it is thought to derive from the name ‘San Rocco’, as it is believed to have been introduced into the area by a monastic community dedicated to the aforementioned saint, while according to the other the name derives from the fact that this variety flourishes in the highest ‘rocche’, rocky crags.
In days gone by Ruchè was a celebration wine for the people of Castagnole Monferrato, to be drunk on special occasions, and over time it has acquired legendary status: it is thought to have accompanied local troops setting out for the crusades, and to have contributed to the victory of the Longobards against the Franks in the battle of Refrancore.
This wine is wreathed in genuine mystery, and its unknown origins and unusual flavour make it stand out from all the other wines of Piedmont, a real jewel in the crown of regional wine production.