Tourist
signposts at the entrance to the village
proudly announce the tradition for cherry-growing
in certain areas of Piedmont.
And indeed part of the economy of the
village of Revigliasco
d’Asti is still based
on this fruit, imported from Asia minor.
What is not so well known is that cherries
were a fall-back, an alternative option
in the years when phylloxera was decimating
the vineyards and putting wine production
at risk.
Nearby Turin, where there were many middle
class families with a taste for fruit
in syrup, was a profitable market, and
this encouraged many farmers to plant
cherry trees, trusting in the particular
microclimate of the hills which had proved
to be so suitable for this crop.
Little by little the growers began to
develop the specialities and define the
classic Piedmontese varieties, which were
much sweeter than wild cherries, and many
recently-imported hybrids.
The robust Graffione Bianco, for example,
a traditional variety of the Asti area,
with its light-coloured skin and red flesh,
is sweet, juicy and highly aromatic. Another
similar variety, but redder and shinier,
is the Galucio, while the Vittona is fleshier
and more delicate. The Vignola (soft flesh,
almost black in colour, excellent for
jam-making) is one of the many early-ripening
varieties, as are Martini, Burlat and
Bigarreau.
Then there are Amarene and Visciole, the
bright coloured, juicy cherries with a
bitterish, tart flavour, that are used
to make Ratafià, a traditional
Vercelli liqueur which is still distilled
by the same family.
Apart from this historic liqueur, cherries
are consumed fresh or used to make jam,
or candied or preserved in syrup to be
used as a decoration for cakes, icecream
and pastries.